Surprises
On my way home from school I have pedalled past this woman sitting in front of her house turning pages from an old book into tight rolls. Finally on Friday I stopped to ask what she was making. She smiled as she called through the door. A younger woman appeared and, on hearing my question, told me the rolls were for fireworks. Fireworks. Really? Interesting.
Businesses in Sivakasi make fireworks. We often see them being tested in the night sky - sometimes in five or six locations all at once. Matches and fire crackers are also big industries here. It was easier for me to imagine the rolls turning into fire crackers.

Sunday morning I went for a bike ride and after lunch settled down to relax with my current novel. The late afternoon solitude was shattered by exploding and reverberating fire crackers. They were close. I hurried out my door, met Maarten in the hall and Kristen on the balcony - all of us curious. Across the street some men stood vigilant over a spent pile of fire crackers. Children jumped and cheered in joy.

After the excitement died, I went down to investigate. Here was my chance to see if those rolls of paper ended up as fire crackers. And they did!

The men explained through hand motions how fire crackers work. I asked what they were celebrating and a man coming from the stairs said it was his daughter's puberty party. She appeared on their balcony looking lovely in her gown, jewels and flowers. So lovely, I said. Come, he said taking my hand. Where are your friends? Come. May I bring my camera? Yes. Yes.

I gathered Kristen, Maarten and my camera. We climbed the stairs to the apartment where we met his daughter and other members of the family. The children were beside themselves with excitement. At least two of their mothers were teachers, one an English teacher. We got along fine.

Soon we were sitting at a table, banana leaf plates in front of us and food being served: idly, chapati, sambar, two chatnis, onion salad and, our new favorite, rava kesari. Sweet kesari with candied fruits. It's delicious.

Our host (behind his daughter in the picture) spoke with Maarten about the Dutch hockey team and about a Dutchman who established a nearby church in the 17oos. He asked me if I voted for Obama, shook my hand on my positive reply and then disappeared to see to the guests in another room. A nephew from another town continued the conversation with us.

After we finished eating, we talked with the children some more, exchanged e-mail addresses with the nephew and took more pictures. Then we made our farewells, wished the new young woman all the best and went home marveling at how generous and inclusive our neighbors had been.

Kristen returned later with some pencils and small dolls for the children. She brought them from Switzerland, her home, for just such a purpose. After dark we were treated to another batch of fire crackers, possibly rolled by the woman down the road. We cheered and waved with the children. And as we reflected on the events of the afternoon, it was easy to agree - India is full of surprises!